Guest Comments

I LOVED it! It brought back lots of old memories and has certainly gotten me in the PI frmae of mind. For the time you spent there, you were very perceptive about how PI society/culture operates. You picked up very well on the big difference between Manila and the rural provincial areas. Staying only in Manila will give a visiotr a completely wrong idea of the PI; I know that the "Ikes" are more representative of the PI than the the tourist "sharks". A lot of the problems are dues to marcos plundering the PI but it seems the country is rebounding and perhaps things will improve.

I don't remember if you warned people about the currency black market. Not that it's illegal (that's the name of the game in the PI), but there's many flimflam schemes. Someone could lose their money and not get a single peso. A co-worker has relatives there and I will deliver cash to them for my co-worker and then I can use whoever they deal with to get a better rate. Otherwise, I would make discreet inquiries at where I stay. Most everyone "knows someone". BY dealing with someone this way, you have someone to hold accountable. Of course, you must "grease" the way by noting that if they know of someone who can get a good rate, there's a "commission" to be had! I could not even get an exit visa when I left the country without paying a 20 peso "expedite" fee to the immigration official! That was when the rate was 7 pesos/dollar.

Sat, 18 Nov 1995
The following is a report on Manila Steve did for the Delphi Travel Forum.

We flew Korean Air over and back, departing from Atlanta with a short layover in Chicago, where most of the passengers embarked. Plane was full (400) in both directions, all Korean except about a dozen Westerners. Announcements in Korean followed by English. When movies were not showing, the screens displayed a very informative navigational display, with four zoom levels of a world map depicting the plane's location and route flown to that pont in time in red. Also, statistics such as airspeed, distance flown and remaining, outside temperature (85 below when we were over/near the Arctic). (Also in Korean and English!)

I was _very impressed_ with Korean Air and will fly them anytime! Cabin service is excellent and attendant-passenger ratio was high. Within Aisa, I flew Cathay Pacific to Hong Kong and to Bangkok, and they did not compare. Fewer attendants, seemed harried. When I asked for a beer on CP, I was told to wait until a meal was served! Korean was always coming through the cabins asking for drink requests.

Although the Seoul-Manila flight (Korean) was barely half-full, we were upgraded to first class for the 3 hour flight. I don't know if this was because we joined Korean's FF program (18,000 miles from the trip!), my birthday was close to the counter agent's, and/or my passport shows I was born in Manila and the agent figured out this was a "homecoming".

My two major impressions of Manila are: (1) it's much more dangerous than when I lived there; (2) road infrastructure has hardly improved in 25 years, creating huge traffic jams. Although I remember that each establishment has armed security outside, the banks have stepped it up: 2 guards outside the locked door, each toting a pistol-grip pump shogun. One or two more inside too.

Each hotel has "authorized" taxis which they have checked out; when you leave they take down the plate and destination. Just before we arrived, a Japanese hailed a cab from across his hotel (probably to save money since the hotel cabs work on fixed rates about double the "meter" rate). He was taken to a pre-arranged location where 3 of the driver's cohorts jumped in the cab and robbed him. They noticed he was missing a finger and so they took off two more fingers.

Kidnapping of residents in the "wealthy" Makati subdivisions (where I lived) is on the rise. Although the subdivisions have restricted entry and armed private security, there is very close scrutiny at the entry checkpoints. Non-westerners must surrender their liscense to enter and retrieve on the way out. Generally, you cannot enter unless you live there or have business. A very sad situation.

Because I can speak the "everyday" phrases of the language without an accent, I felt fairly secure that I would throw off any potential criminals about my exact status. Also, I have Asian eyes and I always started off by pointing out to cab drivers, etc. that I was born there and my mother is Filipina. This seemed to get things off on the right foot quickly.

The traffic situation was very bad. Besides having built almost no roads in 25 years, there are often no traffic lights, or even stop signs, at key intersections. So, there's a big game of chicken as everyone tries to go through the intersection. Screeching tires and blaring horns are the norm. Often, there are huge jams because some cars are stuck in the intersection and can't go forward, so the cars coming from the other street can't go forward either even if the road just past the intersection is clear! So close and yet so far!

For these reasons, we left Manila early and went to Baguio, the "summer" mountain capital. I wanted fly one way & go by bus the other to see the country. But the single daily flight was booked both ways, so we had to bus it both ways. To go 150 miles takes about six hours, due to traffic in Greater Manila, and poor roads outside Manila. Lots of potholes! Also, ash from Mt. Pinatubo eruption was in the area.

Baguio is still a "small" city, so the pace was much slower and we we enjoyed it much more. There's an excellent silversmith school (St. Louis) there run by a religious order. Prices are so low you feel you're stealing. We bought about a dozen items. My most expensive purchase was a sterling filigree bracelet, one-inch wide, for $20.

My wife is Filipino and, of course, we travel there as often as time and budget permits. I especially enjoyed your photo of the coke in a plastic bag with a straw -- it brought back fond memories. You might want to mention something about customs and duties. Visits should know what they can and cannot bring into the Philippines.

I've really enjoyed looking through the info from your trip. I lived in the Philippines for 6 years when I was in high school and college, and I love allof it! I was up in Sagada, for example, in the mid and late 70s when it was a very quiet and secluded place with NO tourists. I was up on a high school cultural exchange, and at that time there were no places for visitors to stay. The girls then had to stay in a convent (which subsequently became St. Mary's (?) Guesthouse, and the boys had to stay in unoccupied portions of the hospital. At that time there was only a generator for the hospital, so no electricity unless there was an operation going on! And we went to the caves, and we gave concerts on the basketball courts of many even smaller towns. We actually lived in Manila (well, Makati, actually) so all the Manila sights were most familiar too. I'm glad that you had a great experience and that you wanted to share it with other people too. I was back two years ago for a month, and found it as wonderful.

I was back in the summer of '92 for a month, and found it still a very delightful place. I've always thought, though, that one probably needs to know someone there to see its beauty. I've met lots of people who have never been anywhere except Mabini or Subic (in its "glory" days) who didn't think it a fine place at all. Having been away about a dozen years, I found the traffic and pollution in Manila quite a bit worse than I remembered, but it was still surprisingly "home" for me. Thanks again for sharing your trip; it was great to see it through your eyes.

Oh, by the way, a book that for me really captured some of the feeling of Manila (although the portrait is mainly of some of the harder sides of life there) is Jessica Hagedorn's "Dogeaters." I read it for a graduate class here at WSU and promptly sent copies off to many of my friends from Manila days.

Comments: I liked your detailed story. I feel like going to the different places you have described, it's so lovely and filled with adventures indeed!

Just wanted to drop a note and compliment you on your travel journal. There's so much junk on the net these days, I like to send kudos to those who create the good stuff.

My wife and I will be spending the entire month of May next year travelling in the Philippines. She was born and raised in Manila and has never seen much outside the Metro Manila area, so we're both looking forward to spending our trip in the out-of-the-way places. I've been searching the net for ideas and your journal has proven entertaining and educational. I plan on creating a similar journal documenting our travels as well. Thanks again for giving us some good info.

I lived in Olongapo and on the Subic Bay base from 1955-1960 from age 11 to 16. My father was assistant fire chief at Subic Bay. I was a junior in high school when the new George Dewey High School opened. I have the ceremony on 8mm film somewhere. I've enjoyed reading your accounts of travel in the Philippines 35 years after I was there. Sounds as though much is the same. Americans were heros when I was there. I've wondered how well we are accepted these days. Your account gives me hope since I dream of visiting there again someday. I am, of course, especially interested in visiting Subic and Olongapo. Should you ever hear from someone who lived there during my era, I'd appreciate you passing along my address. I've lost track of all the kids I went to school with. Thanks for your great tour.

I injoyed reading on the philippines. I traved there two years ago. One thing that I found people need to know in the philippines is all ways some one with there hand out in manila. big scam people want to be travel gide. say will keep you from being robed. better to travel on your own as you say use a book to find where you want to don't be afraid to explore . I had a good time and plan on traveling again.

I went to the Philippines, a year ago last November. I went their to deliver some computer equipment and give a short computer seminar to Nationals working for Translators Association of the Philippines. I spent the first week travel thru Northern Provinces with a National who became a very good freind. I spent the next week in Manila. I have never met more friendly people and am anxious to go back as soon as possible.

I highly recommend visiting the Philippines and make sure you get out to see the rural areas.

Although it is true that many Filipinos call attention by saying Pssst!... it is considered rude and impolite. People who say Psst! are assumed to be uneducated, with no manners and are without good breeding. You are still better off saying excuse me.

All in all, your descriptions are quite good. Next time you go, and I'm sure that there will be a next time, I suggest the following:

Baguio City & Camp John Hay. Baguio is one of the most beautiful cities in the PI. It was the summer capitol of the PI when it was administered by the US (Manilia being awful in August!). Camp John Hay, if you can get in, is also very beautiful. It has a championship golf course which is, literally, the most beautiful in asia. I suggest lunch at the 19th hole, the views are wonderful.

Also, take the tour to see the Igorut & Bantac. The tribes there are quite friendly & (again) the sites are excellent. The only warning on Baguio is that it's a Philippino Tourist Trap, so every- thing's double the Manila price. Buy small essentials in Manila & the rest in Baguio. Check out the Orphanage (I can't remember the name) school where they make filigree silver.

Going to the Philippines in early March. Been there quite a few times, actually used to live there before the bases closed. I go there now mostly for the entertainment. I spend most of my time in Angeles City (Pampanga Province) this is an adult Disney Land. I usually go up to Bagiio City for a couple days and I might go to Puerto Gallera this time.

I went to Palawan for the first time two years ago because my brother-in-law was in the mining business. They did take me to Sabang, on his Range Rover, what a ride, I'm sure those jeepneys may have been safer because my b-i-l drove like a maniac. I especially loved the little beach on the side of the park where monkeys were all over the trees. WE also took a banka to a resort accross the way. This resort is only open when you make a scheduled visit. You need to carry your food and ice for the amount of days you will be staying. They turn on the generator when it gets dark and shut it off at about 9:00pm. I can't remember the hotel in Puerto Princessa which we stayed in, but that is where we arranged to stay in this resort. The beach was great, one drawback, sand fleas called nik niks.

In 1972, four of us decided to take the Philippine Railroad to a town in Bicol called del Gallego (my brother in law's family's home town and named after their grandfather). Bicol is in Luzon, south of Manila.

The train ride was an experience in itself. It stopped for farmers who waved them down.

When we got to del Gallego, they took us by "banka" (outrigger canoes with outriggers on both sides and Volkswagen engines unlike Hawaiian outriggers with outriggers only on one and no engine) through a river to the mouth of the China sea so we can go camping on a beach which was part of an old plantation. It had a run down/condemned plantation house on the property.

The boat ride was magical. It was a dark night with barely a moon, so the stars shone brightly and reflected on the water like white neon. Imagine how it looked like as it rippled. To make it even better there were millions of fireflies on both banks of the river!

The next day, they climbed for some fresh coconuts which I love and we proceeded by "banka" to a sand bar. As we ate the coconuts, we tossed the coconut husks into the sea, before we knew it, we were being trailed by a Tiger shark. That taught us a lesson.

At the sand bar was the clearest waters I have ever seen. I could see my feet perfectly clear under four feet of water. There were all shapes of star fishes and many sea urchins.

For the next part of our trip we went back into town to catch old lumber trucks (WW II) that were going to take us to the mountains. We had several guides, but we were poorly equipped for a hike in the jungle. We walked through miles of wet clay with leeches. Our guide was barefooted with shorts and would just pull the leeches of his legs like it was nothing unusual or creepy. The clay was so soft that at times we had to be pulled out of it. It was all worth it because we saw the most beautiful sunset with a flock of giant fruit bats in the horizon as part of the landscape. We also ran into a Toucan-like bird called "Kalaw."

The guides set up an ad hoc tent-like structure using dried palm leaves. It started to rain, then it stormed, we have typhoons there. I don't remember how we slept because I remember seeing one of the largest spiders I have ever seen crawling into the tent. We ate heart of palm cooked by the guides for dinner.

The next day, we were told that the road we took by the lumber truck was completely flooded, in fact it was so flooded we were taken by canoe to dry land where a family of complete strangers took us in for a day and night. They quickly caught one of their chickens and cooked us a delicious stew called "tinola." I will never forget that. Their graciousness and kindness is the epitome of Filipino hospitality.

We got back to town and we proceeded further down south for the rest of our trip which was going to culminate at Mayon Volcano.

Just wanted to let you know that I enjoyed your web site.My wife is a Filipina from Novaliches and we go back to visit her Inang(mother) and Tatang (father) and 12 brothers and sisters about every 2 years.We last were there Feb. 95. Same time you where there I think. Before that was Dec.92-Jan.93. Theres nothing comparable to a Christmas and New Years in the Philippines!!! I was particularly amused at your exploits at the Okla. Health Dept.. The first time I went I ran into similar problems and decided to just go anyway. I've been all over the Phil. bondoks and never had any health problems but I can't imagine why not!

I'm a chinese from the philippines and i find your travel logs quite interesting and helpful for other americans. I am trying to convince my friends to come home with me for Christmas but they are so afraid that they will be going to an uncivilized, primitive place. i am glad to know that you enjoyed your stay in my country. it was beautiful, wasn't it? thanks for sharing your memories.

I think you guys did a wonderful job in putting this together. I'm from the Philippines and I've never been to the places you visited. I will make it a point on my next visit to go to at least see Banawe.

Aloha and Mahalo.

I went to the Philippines during the Christmas of 1994. I had the time of my life. Went to Ilocos Norte, Baguio City, Taal, and me and my family stayed in Pateros. Do you know where that is??? My favourite place we went to was Hidden Valley, very FUN!!!

I met a Filipna who was working here in the UK a couple of years ago, and we're marrying this Summer in Pangasinan. I've visited Pang and find Filipinos such hospitable people, and the Philippines has to be Heaven on earth!

Great that you have made this website ! I have been to the Pilippines three times,and I love it. I always stays some days in Manilla,where I go for shopping in Makati. Then I go down to Boracay whitsh is GREAT,especily the first time I went there,there was only nippahuts,and no four floor buildings. I have also been to Sabang beach,but I will recomand Boracay ! See you in Boracay.

I found your web compilation very useful. Keep up the good work - Greeetings from south Sweden!

My wife is from the island of Siquijor. In fact, she is there now on vacation. The last time that I was there was approximately three years ago. I love it there!!! The people are undoubtedly the friendliest that I have ever met. Must say that I do miss some good Beef when there. I have also spend some time in Cebu City. I intend to revisit the Philippines some time next year.

Please try to say a word for the Flying Dog Resort in Samar. Its on Dalupiri Island. Easy to get to thru Catarman daily PAL flights. The fact is, this place is unique, a way out, no web, no phone, no fax or TV and all around still totally unexplored. The rates are real cheap, a cottage will cost $20 a night good for two persons. the food is cheap and fresh. Contact Joey on 0063.2.5223478. or fax him on 00632.5215075. E Mail me for any further details. They have no agents and until now even with some splendid brochures everthing has been word of mouth.

I would just like to say that the Suhotan Cave which is situated in the Wester pprovince os the Island of Samar is a good site for adventure. A place worthy to be visited. And of course, the beaches of the Eastern part of the Island has her own natural beauty. The problem is that it is not yet dedeloped for tourism. Paradoxically, I am not for the touristic development of the province for the people is at peace and to stay there is good for rest and enjoyment. As you might know, I am from Samar. We have a house there. If ever you want to visit Samar, I live near the Capitol of the capital-Borongan.

It's wonderful that other Filipinos are telling others and showing others the beauty of the Philippines.

Barrow is the northernmost town in the United States, where almost 1/4 of its people are Filipinos. There are a lot of people here that are interested in going to the Philippines, but are not sure if it'll be worth it. Now, I can just tell them to visit this site, and I know, once they see your pictures and read your stories, they'll be convinced. Thank you very much!! :-)

I ENJOYED READING ABOUT HOW OTHERS PERCEIVE MY HOME COUNTRY TO BE LIKE. I WILL BE RETURNING TO MANILA THIS COMING DECEMBER 1996 WITH CLOSE FRIENDS TO ATTEND THEIR OLDER SISTER'S WEDDING. I AM SO LOOKING FORWARD TO IT. WE ARE ALL VERY EXCITED ABOUT RETURNING TO OUR BIRTH PLACE. SOME OF THE INFORMATION YOU HAVE RELAYED HAVE BEEN HELPFUL (COMING FROM A FOREIGNER). MY LAST VISIT TO MANILA WAS IN DECEMBER 1992 AFTER MY YEAR 12 GRADUATION. I DIDN'T DO MUCH, JUST VISITED RELATIVES AND WENT SHOPPING IN THE HUGE MALLS NEARLY EVERYDAY. BUT MY NEXT TRIP IS GOING TO BE DIFFERENT. BECAUSE I WILL BE TRAVELLING WITH FRIENDS WE ARE ALL GOING TO HAVE SOME SERIOUS FUN. ANYWAY, I HAVE TO SIGN OFF NOW. THANK YOU FOR GIVING THE OPPORTUNITY TO WRITE IN THIS SPACE. TAKE CARE AND HOPEFULLY YOU WILL VISIT MY COUNTRY OF BIRTH AGAIN.

I am a Filipina and I have been in the U.S. for 11 years now and I have not been home yet. I enjoyed reading your exciting trip and felt homesick. I had been to the places you described and if I will have a chance to go home, I would like to visit these places again. Virginia is so far from the beach and you have to wait for summer to be able to go to the beach. Borakay is a place I want to seet again. I think that is the best beach I've ever seen. Anyway, it is very nice of you to share your experience with us and I am sure some people will be encourage to see this small but beautiful part of the earth. Thanks to you.

Boracao Island - Paradise. This is for any backpacker who wants to go troppo. Soft baby powder white sand and beautiful crystal blue water. The Main beach is one of the most beautiful beachs Ive seen in Philippines. Still untouched by modern society where the only buildings occupying the island are small hotels and bamboo huts as well as the flea markets in the Main beach. The markets sell things from shell jewellery to batiks. It is common to be approached by little old ladies while you bask on the beach wanting to massage you or sell you fried bannanas. If you plan to go you have to try these bannanas. Their hot, crispy and sweet. Yummm! If you can tear yourself away from the beach you can hire a mountain bike or a motorcycle and tour the island yourself.

I loved your tale of your trip I am not finished looking at the pictures but I will come back. I have a penpal in Manila and it is my greatest desire to go to meet her. I am planing to go next year and your travel log was very helpful for planning my activites. Thank you

I am a senior at Southern Illinois University at Edwardsville doing research on the Philippines for my Geography of Asia 333 class. I have thoroughly enjoyed studying the Philippines and hope that one day I may visit there.

I was surfing the net when I stumbled on this site. it is saturday morning and I was planning a very busy day (chores, then cycling and/or blading and housing hunting) so I just went through it quickly... well, what do you know - it's pouring like crazy outside. anyway, this is very interesting. I am a filipino-canadian and have been away for ten years. I am planning to visit in nov for 3 weeks (my work wouldn't allow me to be away longer than that) and am inspired by this travelouge. anyway, it seems that you guys had a good time. way to go.... a girl friend (really an ex-) is interested in tagging along. so this makes it more interesting - i have to be able to sell my country (?) to her. unfortunately, as by now you may know, travel is almost a luxury for an ordinary filipino.

State: Washington
City: Issaquah
I was just married to a beautiful Philipine woman on April 28th 1996. I wrote to Delia for more than a year and one half. We planed the wedding sight unseen. Pretty high risk, don't ya think. Howerver, it was the most romantic 25 days of my life. I am back in the US now and wondering what I am doing here. The original plan was for me to come back home and file INS papers for my wife to immagrate to the US. But, the more I think about what it was really like there on the island of Samar near Calbayog City. I think I want to go there instead. I am 45 caucausian and married to the pettiest 28 year old beauty in the world.. She is bright, funny, and speaks very fine english. I am not old fashioned, but rather a modern man. I have the "equals" view of marriage... Having said that, I have never been so loved or pampered in all my life as by my Philipine wife..She unbealiable in every conceivable way.

I felt hostility in Manila for Americans, but not in the more remote areas where my wife Delia is from. I have lot of interesting opinions about why so many foreigners are marrying these lovely women. It is nothing to do with the stereo type male chavenist view either. I am a very modern liberated, kind man. I did not choose my Asian wife to be a slave. She is just the best mate I can have ever dreamed of having. Just an Angel of God.. I am all alone in Washington State now near Seattle and waiting for INS. or to clear up business here and to get a 3-A Visa status for the Phils.... I thank you for being interested, because I love to talk about the Philippine people .. I love them dearly.... they are just the best.... They are very poor, but still the are "rich".

I was excited to find some online information about travelling in the Phillippines. Not much is written, but my impression is that the Phillippines is a "diamond in the rough." I am particularly interested in visiting some of the lesser known islands and beach resorts. Since I will be traveling with a six year old boy, I want to find places that are safe and clean, but away from the crowds and congestion.

Mano in traditional Pilipino is a gesture to show respect for your elders or someone older than you. The gesture is widely seen in parties & other social events. Mano or to 'bless' is a carried out by gently using you right hand to hold the elder's right hand and placing it on your forehead. I was born in Manila so I brought that value with me & it stayed with me till this day. I seldom see this type of gesture being kept due to their westernization experiences, but I don't see it as a negative way. However, if I see a Filipina, filipino lady, "Mano" to her parents.... I marry her in the instant. It proves to me alot of character & great value. Does anyone know someone who still perpatuate this gesture? Its great!

I thoroughly enjoyed reading about your adventure in the Philippines. I am a Filipino who grew up in Manila. Your narrative was well written, your observations perceptive, and your descriptions truthful, but kind. Surely you have a wondeful sense of humor or else you wouldn't have seen the positive side of traffic jams, air pollution, street pot holes, and the like.

Best of luck to you and your friends. I hope would-be tourists to the Philippines will be enticed to ... eat more balut!

I served a mission for the Mormon church in the Quezon City area for two years. I love the people of the Philippines, and I truly miss my associations with them. I did not have an opportunity to see much of the beauty of the islands, because I spent most of my time in the city, but the kindness and love of the people showed me a different side to the beauty of the islands.

I often come home every other year. I'm from Angeles City, Pampanga in Luzon. I have traveled that region quite well and enjoyed it immensely. Traveling is my cup of tea--from the far east to europe. Of course, there's nothing like home.

I am Tour operator specialy for the Philippines and run a DIving scholl in the Philippines. The Diving Scholl is Located in Coco Beach Resort - Mindoro. We offer a least 2 dives a day to our 20 different dive Sites.

You guys obviously spent a lot of time putting this elaborate site together and you are to be commended for all the work. I'm planning a few days in Manila, and I was able to find a few very helpful tidbits of information that will come in handy.

But I must say, I found the word "Adventure" in the site title just a bit ironic, as you guys don't seem to be very adventurous types at all. I'm sure you're all very good, well-meaning guys, but to expatriates such as myself who have spent decades living in this part of the world, you come across as the typical spoiled Americans who expect to find the whole world resembling the U.S. Welcome to reality.

I think you complain too much about too many things--toileting facilities, unsatisfactory English ability, poor service in restaurants, etc. If the waiters and waitresses always fouled up your orders, I might ask, why didn't you order in Tagalog...or Korean, for that matter? Your description of the "horrible" service you received in the Korean restaurant only revealed your lack of experience in Korean eating customs. (What were you doing in a Korean restaurant, anyway?) For one thing, Koreans do not use "serving utensils", and everyone is expected to eat out of the same pot.

The main jist of what I wanted to say is that some of the conditions you complained about are just normal fare for this part of the world. You know, this is Asia, and standards are 180 degrees different from those in the U.S. most of the time. What's absolutely intolerable in the USA is often quite acceptable here--such as several people eating out of the same pot, for example. Americans look at that as being unsanitary; to Asians who do it, it's a sign of closeness.

Americans also expect everyone in the world to bend over backwards speaking THEIR language (English), but how many Americans ever think before going to a foreign country that they should prepare by first learning some of the language of the host country? I know some Americans who have lived here in Korea for 10 or 12 years and who know almost nothing of the local language yet have the gall to complain about Koreans who cannot speak English adequately.

An American who decides to come to this part of the world should be prepared for the differences. A person truly has to be adventurous and have a totally open mind to travel successfully in this part of the world.

I'm sure your complaints would be totally understandable to other Americans who have never traveled abroad, especially to less-fortunate, less-developed spots in the world, but those of us who live here and take all of those "inconveniences" for granted have little toleration for the average American who doesn't realize how pampered a life-style people in the USA lead compared to the other 80% or so of the world's population.

Example. Japanese homes have no central heating and are built flimsily because of the frequent earthquakes, so in winter the temperature inside the house at night gets as low as the temperature outside. During the 4 years I lived there...when I woke up each morning, the glass of water or juice on the bedstand beside my bed would be frozen. I lived in a middle-class neighborhood. I wonder how many Americans could endure such conditions...

My wife and I lived in the town of Magdiwang on the island of Sibuyan for two years. We were members of the Peace Corps from 1985 until 1987. We still write to a number of people and I just enjoy trying to keep up with info about the Philippines.

Joanna
Country: U.S.A
State: California
City: West Covina

I have enjoyed what I have read so far. The pictures are great. I left the Philippines when a I was 9 years old. I have often wanted top see the country where I was born. I have realized though that the infrastructure has not provided for the preservation these natural wonders of the Philippines. I hope to hear more about your other trips. Thank you for reintroducing me to the country of my birth.

We had the netscape for a few days only & i've gone surfing around mostly in the Philippines. I am a filipina & i always treasure the beauty back home. I happened to came across your story about your travel in P.I. & your photos were so interesting.

I was home last year of '95 & really had a good time when i was there. I suggest you guys next time on your trip to P.I. to visit Davao City (Mindanao) and the place where i came from Dipolog City (Zamboanga Del Norte, Mindanao). You can find good beaches & some interesting places that i can recommend you to visit like Dakak Beach Resort, a 30-45 minutes ride from Dipolog Airport, airbuses were ready to take you to the place. Davao had the place for the Philippine Eagle Santuary, see how beautiful & huge the Phil.eagles are.

I enjoyed your travel log! It was interesting to read about your reactions to the "sights and sounds" of the Philippines. I am Filipino but was born in Great Lakes, Illinois. I have only been to the Philippines twice. Most recently in July 1994. The first time I went I was 7 and the last trip was when I was 19. It was quite an experience. Reading your observations sound just like myself describing what I saw during my five weeks there. It was quite interesting to read about how an "American tourist" reacted to things like Balut...

Thanks for sharing your experiences! I only hope to visit the Philippines again with my boyfriend who has never been outside the U.S. He'd be another 6'2" American tourist and HIS reactions would give me a good laugh!

I have visited most countries in Sth-East-Asia. In the Phillipines, I have been invited to lunch or dinner by the locals more often than in other countries.

On one occasion,I was in a taxi and the driver invited me for lunch with his family. In Mindanao, I also had lunch with a local family. They also invited me stay at their house if I visited their town again. Regretfully, I have not been back to the Phillipines since 1992 but the Phillipines remain one of my favourite travel destinations in Sth-East-Asia.

I thought this was an excellent site. It made me real proud to be a filipina. I was raised here in America and I don't know much about the history of our people or our country. I kept wanting to know more and more.

Some of your descriptions are inaccurate and misleading..how did I know?... I'm from the Philippines!

I'm from the philippines and grow up in Palawan until I had to moved here in canada. I really enjoyed reading you about your adventure especially in palawan. it brought back memeories.

I havent' been back home to the Philippines since I was 11 years old (now 26 years old)and I found you travel notes humorous and fascinating. It seems that people don't take the time to become a tourist in their own country and I appreciate you taking the time to create this web page. It brings back a lot of memories as a child and somehow makes me proud that Americans have found the Philippines worth going to and visiting again. Thanks alot!

I think it's great that all three of you visited the Philippines together. The combination of Filipino and American viewpoints probably made for some great contrasting insights.

I was born in the Philippines but came to the US as a toddler. Since then, I've visited several times, but there is still much of the country that I'd like to see. For a small country, there's a lot to see! My boyfriend, who is not Filipino, keeps telling me he wants to visit there with me someday. I think that would be fun, although I'd have to brush up on my Filipino beforehand. I'm from Cebu, by the way. Your web site looks great. Thanks for a great way of visiting the Philippines!

What a wonderful web site. In the summer of 1991 my family of six (including four teenagers) made it to Sagada. That was a real adventure! Your site brought back lots of wonderful memories, especially your section on food and dining. Did you ever order a pizza out in the provinces? I will never forget the one we had delivered to us in a hotel in Cauayan, Isabela. No cheese! I think the sauce was banana catsup with a meat of questionable origin. When we got back to Manila, for the kids the trip to a Pizza Hut was like a trip to a religious shrine.

Following is a talk I gave for a communications class I took at Wichita Technical College in 1993.

si Malakas at si Maganda
(the Strong and the Beautiful)
by Leonard Lakey
xpogi@feist.com
December 1993

Before time began, the world was empty. It was Bathalang Maykapal's home and he was alone in its nothingness. But with nothing to see or hear he became lonely. So he raised his arm and swung it across the void, making the sun shine warm and golden and the sky fill with puffy clouds. A round moon shimmered and stars dotted the night.

Then Bathalang Maykapal raised another arm. And behold, there was the earth, a paradise with soaring trees, grass, fragrant flowers, and singing birds. As his deputies, Bathalang Maykapal made a ruler for each of the families of creatures.

One day, the king of birds, his giant white wings glistening in the sunlight, soared over the trees in a wide circle. He saw tall bamboo swaying in the breeze and landed there to rest.

Tak. Tak. A knocking sound came from inside the bamboo. Then he heard a muffled voice.

"Free us, O mighty king of birds. With your strong beak, break the bamboo imprisoning us."

"Is this a trap?" the great bird wondered. Suddenly, a lizard slithered up the bamboo. How hungry the bird felt. He pecked at the lizard. And missed. So the giant bird pecked again. Hard!

Crack! The bamboo split open. Out stepped a strong man and a beautiful woman. And so it was that man and woman stepped into the world together and equal.

"Thank you. O great king of birds. I am Malakas, " said the man. "This is Maganda, my wife. You have freed us, king of birds, and we are grateful. Come and live with us."

"No, " replied the king of birds. "The sky is my home. I fly with the wind. Come now, ride on my back and I will show you your homeland."

As they circled the wide world, they saw a cluster of islands, green and lovely under the sun, sparkling like precious emeralds in the sea. And so it was that in the beautiful islands Malakas and Maganda, the strong and the beautiful, made a home for the brown race. (Margaret Sullivan)

No one knows how long ago this story was first told. Perhaps over three thousand years ago. Christian and Moslem children in the Philippines hear this and other legends before they hear the creation stores from the Bible and the Koran. The children of pagan tribes that still live in the mountains and forests hear these same stories as have their ancestors for generations and generations. Indeed a cannon of oral tradition is the one thing that all of the people in the Philippines have in common.

The summer of 1991 my wife, my four children, and I went on a journey that was to take us thousands of miles and hundreds of years away from Wichita. For my wife it was an opportunity to see her family and travel back to a remote past she had only heard about in legend. For the children it was an education experience that will influence them the rest of their lives. For me it was look into the psyche of a people who I have come to love and respect.

Most Americans know little about the Philippines except for the shoe collection of Imelda Marcos, or the red light districts in Angeles City and Olongapo. (Fortunately neither no longer exist). Americans know and care little about a country that was "made in the image of The United States" or a people who revere Americans in spite of suffering much and gaining little from their long association with the United States.

Travel with me to a place few Americans have seen. We start at Wichita and fly west, out over the Pacific far past the Hawaiian Islands, past the Marshall Islands, past Japan and Korea. We land in Manila, a metropolitan city of contrasts with over eight million citizens.

Manila's streets range from multi-lane boulevards to maze-like alleys. Traveling by jeepney through the busy streets things seem surreal, like a Salvador Dali painting in motion. People seem to be going in all directions in every conceivable form of contrivance.

In Manila you find what you find in any city of its size: pollution, poverty, prostitution, ... you also see a wealth of culture. But this is not the what we have come to explore. To travel back in time we must head north out of Metro Manila. Into the real boondocks. "Boondock" is actually a Filipino word that has found its way into English. Along with a demeaning epithet for Asian people that I will not repeat here, it was brought to America by US veterans of the Spanish American war. In Tagalog one of the seventy languages spoken in the Philippines, it means mountain and is spelled "bundok".

The road north begins a modern four lane highway but soon we turn off onto a gravel road. The area around Manila is rather flat and the striking volcanic cone of Mt. Arayat far off in the distance is our only hint of the rugged mountainous terrain that we will cross in the next few days. We cross miles of farm land that reminds one of Kansas except that isn't wheat growing off in the distance, it's rice; and those aren't cattle grazing on the hillside, they're caribou, native water buffalo .

Looking out of the jeepney window, way off in the distance, we see the Cordillera Central mountain range; our destination, the land of the Bontoc Igorots, head hunters only a few decades ago. At the foot of the mountains is what appears to be a vast field of snow. Snow? The temperature is in the nineties and there has never been any snow reported here, just ten degrees North of the Equator. As we travel closer we see the "snow" is piled up in large drifts, almost mountains in themselves. There is a sign I don't understand on the side of the road. It reads "CAUTION LAHAR." There is what looks like a military jeep coming toward ours. The men in it are all wearing bandannas over their faces. I began to worry about the New Peoples' Army, the communist insurgents active in the Philippines since the days of the Vietnam War. The stories my wife had told me about their brutal murders of three of her family members who had refused to give up their farm for the "revolution" came back to me. Had I brought my four teenage kids to meet the same fate? But the N.P.A. wasn't supposed to be in this area any more. Were they right wing militiamen? I had heard stories that they were as bad as the N.P.A.

As the jeep drew nearer I gust of wind hit me in the face. Something was blowing in the wind. It stung my eyes and burned my nose. It was finer than sand but much to abrasive to be dust. Then I realized what was going on.... The word "lahar" means volcanic ash, volcanic ash from Mt. Pinatubo's eruption a year earlier. The sign had warned about volcanic ash. The men in the jeep were wearing the bandannas to protect their face and lungs from the toxic ash. The mountains of "snow" were mountains of volcanic ash; ten times as much of it as had been produced by Mt. St. Helen.

We proceed on into the blizzard of ash, covering our faces with whatever we can find. Never in my life have I ever imagined such desolation. One forth of the best farm land in The Philippines wiped out. Thousands of families left homeless. I didn't think to grab my camera and record this scene -- something I have regretted ever since. My only thought was "We have got to get out of here." --- After about an hour of hell the ash is behind us and the rugged Cordillera Central Mountains lay ahead of us.

The road heading up into the mountains makes the gravel road we traveled in the lowlands seem like a paved avenue. In places the road is barely wider than our jeepney and rocks and boulders in our path bear evidence of resent landslides. As we climb the temperature becomes markedly cooler and the humidity rises. We are literally climbing into the clouds. The vegetation becomes thicker with many wild banana plants and prehistoric looking tree ferns. The area we are in is called a cloud forest because the vegetation gets much of its moisture by direct condensation from the clouds. Intense cloudbursts are not uncommon however. The record rainfall in this area was recorded on October 16, 1967: 1216 millimeters, that is over four feet of rain in a twenty four hour period. No wonder evidence of landslide is all around us.

We continue on, traveling not much faster than we could walk around hairpin curves overlooking thousand foot drop offs. As we round a curve the road completely disappears under a fifty foot pile of rubble in front of us. We have five hours of narrow winding road behind us, a pile of boulders in front of us and no where to turn around. The thought of backing up for miles in this terrain is as frightening as an encounter with the New Peoples Army.

Fortunately a road crew is working up ahead and they offer to clear a path for us through the recent landslide.

We are now in Mountain Province, the home of the Bontoc Igorots. These former head-hunters were the most warlike of the mountain tribes. When the Philippines became a US possession in 1889 these people had little contact with the world outside of their mountains. The Spanish had not attempted to convert them to Christianity in the three hundred years they were in control of the islands and the Igorots' low land cousins feared and wanted nothing to do with them.

In the past, the death of a fellow Bontoc tribesman was avenged by taking the head of a member of the killers group. The head-hunting expedition involved a great deal of ritual and the observance of omens. Enemy villages were raided at dawn followed by a swift withdrawal. Head-hunting is now illegal, but even today, the clan of a murdered Bontoc may observe some of these rites and attempt to kill someone from the other clan.

Today the Bontoc adhere to both Christianity and their traditional rituals. They are industrious, hardy farmers. The only level land in this area is found in a few narrow river valleys so the Bontoc and other mountain peoples of the Philippines developed an ingenious method of farming the steep mountain terrain. Thousands of years ago they carved terraces out of the solid rock on the sides of the mountains. They brought in top soil and built an elaborate system of canals and dams for irrigation. Today the ancestors of the builders grow rice and kamote as well as millet, vegetables, and fruit on these terraces. In recent years logging in the mountains has taken it's toll. Deforestation has changed the flow of mountain streams which for hundreds of years has fed the irrigation canals. Many of the terraces are no longer used and are reverting back to natural vegetation. The families that farmed them for generations have moved on, many to the squalid slums around Manila.

The mountain people who remain are very protective of their environment. Even though most of them have never seen the pollution of the cities or the devastation of Mt. Pinatubo they seem to have a understanding that they are the keepers of paradise. When we visited Sagada, truly a mountain paradise with a beautiful landscape, excellent hiking amid pine trees, stoned walled rice terraces and cave-studded limestone outcrops the good- natured local people let us know that we were welcome but our smoke belching diesel powered jeepney was not. We parked the jeepney and walked. Sagada was in many ways the high point of our journey. The cool, pure mountain air scented by pine, orchid and rose was almost intoxicating. Our guest house was a warm, friendly place with good food and great conversation. The only thing it lacked was hot water and private baths, something I never really got used to but didn't seem to bother the other guests.

Sagada has become a travelers meeting place. It's the kind of place where you stay much longer than intended. Some people stay for months. It is not a tourist place it is a travelers place. There are no modern hotels and no noisy nightlife. Instead there are homey guest houses, each with only four or five guest rooms where conversation and contemplation are the main attractions.

The local Igorots, many of whom speak English as well as their native Kankanai, are happy to explain their culture. They grow rice, vegetables, and root crops, and raise pigs. The growing season is accompanied by a full complement of rituals and animal sacrifices to ancestors. Wange and Begnas are community celebrations performed seasonally throughout the year. Wange is associated with crop growth and involves the carrying of a sacrificial pig around the community to affirm village unity and fertility. Begnas is a series of communal rites derived from head hunting days. The spirits of both living and dead Sagadans are called back home to achieve protection, fertility, and vengeance. It is a three day celebration featuring ritual, prayer, and dancing to gong music into the wee hours of the morning.} (Peter Harper & Evelyn Sebastion Peplow, Philippines Handbook, Moon Publications)

To a westerner the idea that these likable people were once head hunters seems to be a contradiction. But as with other Filipino's every thing they do they do with a great deal of passion. Natives of different regions differ in temperament, attitude and values, but they share many characteristics. They are warm, friendly, and hospitable. They enjoy life. Their natural generosity can tend toward extravagance. Whether Roman Catholic, Moslem, or pagan, their devoutness sometimes takes the form of fanatical fervor. A calm exterior may conceal fiery passion and a lighthearted spirit can, under provocation, suddenly erupt into a display of violent temper.

The creation story of Malakas and Maganda shows something of the importance Filipinos place on strength and beauty. As a mater of fact Malakas and Maganda, the names of the first man and woman are the Tagalog words for "strong" and " beautiful."

With their natural tendency towards fanaticism it is understandable how the Filipinos of old may have taken their demonstrations of strength to the extreme. But who are we to judge. Our forefathers in Europe were beheading, burning at stake, flaying alive and disemboweling each other with religious fervor at the same time the Bontocs and Sagadains were building their rice terraces. Furthermore, a sixteenth century Bontoc or Sagadan working in his rice terrace by moon light probably had a better chance of survival than you or me walking the streets of Wichita tonight.

Hi, my I live in stone mountain, ga (15 miles northeast of atlanta) with my husband, Bob, daughter and son. I will be accompanying my parents to the philippines, leaving in October. I was born in the phillipines, and this will be my first trip back. I too, have been surfing the www for info on philippines and stumbled on your web page. to say the least i'm very excited about this trip. I'm taking four weeks off from work (the longest I've taken ever for a trip). there are so many relatives and friends to meet and get reacquainted with that i too plan to keep a journal of my trip. thanks in advance for all the information, i share my thoughts when i return. so long from ...

Nice to read about your trip. I spent 4 weak in the Philippines in Jan 1990 and met my wife Jean from Ozamiz City. It was an experiance of a life time. I realy enjoyed it. We recently went back for two weaks in Jan 1996 and found that things had changed. Priced had increased to the point that allmost everything is more expensive then travel in Canada or the US and the standards are much worse. The people were not as friendly as the first time. All they wanted was $10 tips for nothing. We visited all the same place as you and more except for Palawan. I think we had the same 12 year old guide at Taal. I was glad to leave there and go to Thailand for two weaks afterwards. Unfortunatly it is now a much better place to visit then the Philippines.

Nice info! I just married Evelyn Bendanio, a filipino, in Cebu. We are going thru immigration red tape now. It's nice to learn info of her country before she arrives. Thanks. Bye.

I have just returned frorm a photo-journalism adventure in Mindanao which included interviews with Nur Misuari and General Ambil! Also white water kayaking in Misamis Oriental, volcano climbing in Camiguin and staying with Bajao Sea Gypsies in Tawi Tawi. I am a frequent adventure visitor to the Philippines and have now started a company specialising in adventure and special interest travel.

REALLY ENJOYED YOUR ADVENTURE IN THE P.I. MY FAMILY AND I WERE THERE IN AUGUST FOR 1 MONTH! YOUR DESCRIPTIONS ARE ACCURATE, AND IT MADE ME REMEMBER OUR TRIP THERE. UNFORTUNATELY, WE WENT DURING RAINY SEASON AND REALLY DID NOT GET TO LEAVE METRO MANILA TOO MUCH, BUT WITH YOUR DESCRIPTIONS, IT'S A MUST THAT WE VISIT OUTSIDE OF MANILA NEXT TIME! REALLY ENJOYED YOUR TRAVEL LOG.

I went to Guimaras and Iloilo city after 18 years. I found the people warm and friendly but there is still a lot to be done to "modernize" the towns(ie:paved roads, street lights, telephone srvc). Overall I will definetly go back.

Kewl !. I'm a frequent traveller in the Philippines too. Been in Love with the country ever since. But please when you come back here try mountaineering ! its a lot more exciting and fun. "Go to where tourist have not gone before !

I happened upon you journal while searching for Jeep parts and read about the hanging coffins. I have added this to my bookmarks and plan to read more latter. I think it is great that you have chosen to share your experiences wiht the rest of of us who may never have the chance to visit these places. You also have very good pictures. Thanks!!

Great website! I thoroughly enjoyed reading about your experiences. I visited Baguio in 1984 and it forever altered my life. To see the smiling faces of the Philipino people in the face of the poverty of the time made me reconsider my views about "the American Dream". I went to see the "Psychic Surgeons" and discovered that spiritual healing really does work... even though what we saw apparantly was faked.

Currently my plans are to go to Nepal and build a teaching hospital for teaching westerners how to use this ancient medicine (and its spiritual components). My Nepalese wife and I are leaving in early October for six months to get this started.

Visit us in Nepal. You're ready now.

Good travels...

I WAS STATIONED IN THE PHILIPPINES WITH MY WIFE (A FILIPINA) AND OUR TWO GIRLS FROM 87-90. WHAT AT BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY. WE PLAN ON RETURNING AFTER OUR KIDS ARE AWAY AT SCHOOL FOR RETIREMENT. I CAN'T WAIT. I'M GLAD TO SEE SOMEONE CREATE A HOME- PAGE FOR OTHERS TO LOOK AT AND LEAVE MESSAGES. GREAT WORK TO YOU. THANKS..

I enjoyed the pictures and the stories behind them. I hope to visit and maybe move to the PI soon. Any info you can give me would be sincerely appreciated. Thanks for the interesting site!

Thanks for your Web pages. I am 1/2 pinoy and visited the PIslands in 1992

I have a friend who lives in Las Pinas. Erlinda is actually from Batangas, and she claims the coutry side is very beautiful with it's natural serene landscape. Also, there is a church near Las Pinas which has the world's largest wooden organ. I plan to visit the Philippines in January 1997.

Thank you for sharing this experience with us. I am half Filipino, and have not had the chance to visit my father's home of Cebu. I would like to learn more about the Phillipines and your experiences are a wonderful resource.

I would say that the Philippines is pretty interesting place to live. I lived and went to school (elementary) there for two years. I attended public school. My parents made me and my sister lived like a typical pilipino. We used public transportation. We ate fih a lot. I would never forget Philippines. The people were friendly. Living in the Philippines was an exciting experieced.

Hay Bro'. Great stuff, we enjoyed looking at your web page. Give our love to the family, take care, Love Shawn and Catherine.

You've seen places some natives have not, lucky you.

Thanks so much for sharing it. I'm bringing my husband (Chicagoan-born Amerasian) to the Philppines for the second time and wanted to sightsee this time around. Your insights were very helpful. A friend of mine will be marrying an American in the Philippines come Dec. and I'll be sharing my info with them as well. Thanks again!

Found your website very frank, amusing, astutely accurate. glad, despite your misadventures, that you had fun..... as a filipino now living in the states for quite some time, it was a refreshing addition to the otherwise rather antiseptic roster of philippine-related sites.

I am a first generation Filipina, and will be traveling to the Philippines in early January for a family reunion. I am 21 years old and have only been there once before when I was seven. I will be there for a total of nine weeks. I plan on doing some volunteer services in Dumaguete City, on the island of Negros Oriental for about four weeks and would like to find out more information about the area (i.e., the safety, health risks, travel tips, etc.)

I lived in the Philippines from 1988 to 1991 at Clark Air Base in Angles City. Seen the Mt. Pinatubo volcano go up. Loved the country and people, read and view anything I can get my hands on, thanks for the site.